Background:
In May of 2016, The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) reopened after a three-year renovation. As part of this renovation, the museum also unveiled a new high-class eatery, In Situ. In Situ’s concept is mind-blowing, and perfect for an art museum: they recreate the dishes of famous chefs and restaurants around the world. In Situ, in the art world, refers to an art piece that is made specifically for a certain location. At In Situ in the SFMoMa, dishes are taken out of their original context and recreated for an audience sometimes a half a world away (sometimes not--the menu bounces from Kyoto to right down the street at Mission Chinese). Not only is this such a great concept for the location, it is also a fantastic way to get a sampler of so many different famous dishes from world-renowned restaurants.
Eat This:
In Situ was our first fine dining experience in SF, so we were super excited to go all out.
Carrot, Sour Curd, Pickled Pine
Inspired by Matt Orlando from Amass in Copenhagen, Denmark
Of course we had to start with the Copenhagen dish! We had completely missed Amass during our visit, and this is the first time we had heard of it--which is clearly a huge overstep on our part! We were so consumed with Noma (which we couldn’t even get into), that Amass escaped our notice.
The carrot dish was perfectly executed, and it made my top five for 2016. There is nothing better than a well-done vegetable dish that stands alone so well you never once miss the meat. We can’t wait to try and get reservations at Amass the next time we visit Copenhagen.
Wasabi Lobster
Mango jelly, thai vinaigrette, wasabi marshmallow
Inspired by Tim Raue from Restaurant Tim Raue in Berlin, Germany
The wasabi lobster made Jason’s top five for 2016, and it was certainly one of the finest preparations of lobster I’ve had. Lobster needs so little--just a little expertise to bring out the natural flavor and tenderness, and the slight spicy/sweet flavor of the wasabi marshmallows did that perfectly, and the texture of the tender lobster and fluffy marshmallow paralleled each other so well.
Octopus and the Coral
Braised octopus and seaweed (spicy)
Inspired by Virgilio Martinez from Central in Lima, Peru
Whoa, was this dish awesome! Aesthetically the dish is supposed to resemble its title--an octopus hanging out in the coral. Rice crackers are dyed with squid ink which added an element of texture and color. The braised octopus was cooked perfectly and it was rich and heavy--such an unusual flavor profile for a seafood dish. A cup of broth was served on the side--I loved this touch! It was warming and flavorful.
Liberty Duck Breast
French green lentils, apples, aged red wine vinegar sauce
Inspired by Thomas Keller from The French Laundry in Yountville, California
Oh dear, we had problems with this dish both in its real form and its copycat. We had to order The French Laundry staple, especially knowing we would be dining there ourselves in a few days and we would be able to properly compare the two versions. Each version, however, was rather overcooked. Read our full TFL review here.
The Forest
Quinoa risotto, mushrooms, parsley “moss”
Inspired by Mauro Colagreco from Mirazur in Menton, France
The Forest came highly recommended by our server, and we were so glad we ordered it. The presentation was so fun, and the aesthetic and taste made you feel like you were really foraging in the woods for mushrooms.The “moss” was a parsley flavored light sourdough, and the variety of mushrooms and flavors going on were just mind blowing. Eating this dish was akin to being a fairy trampling through the forest, and we dug that.
Dessert:
Interpretation of Vanity
Moist chocolate cake, cold almond cream, bubbles, and cocoa
Inspired by Andoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz in Errenteria, Spain
I mean, bubbles? We had to see what this was all about. Unfortunately, this was a fairly basic chocolate cake, and the best part was the almond cream. You can’t deny the excellence of the presentation, however!
Wood Sorrel & Sheep’s Milk Yogurt
Inspired by Rene Redzepi from Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark
This dessert is the closest we have been to Noma (the number one restaurant in the world for several years), and that kind of sucks, but this version of their famous dessert didn’t disappoint. Wood sorrel is a weed with an acidic, slightly sour flavor. Here, the sorrel is turned into a sweet granita and served with a honeyed yogurt with a crisp shell of sugar served atop. Loved this one!
Drink:
When we went, which was right after they opened, they were serving beer and wine only, so Hamiltoe and I drank prosecco. Their menu now includes cocktails, which sound delicious. Jason had some tasty nonalcoholic infusions during our meal, like this hibiscus one:
Atmosphere:
The vibe in here was in keeping with a modern art museum--clean and minimalistic. The seating was a bit too minimal (read: uncomfortable), but the bar area had awesome seating made out of wood that looked cool, and also more comfy. Also, the silverware looked like paintbrushes!
Artistic Hospitality:
The service was professional and there were no missteps, but the waiters were a bit snooty/hoity-toity, which I never think is necessary just because the category is fine dining--lighten up, people! It’s just dinner.
Frankie’s Notes:
Three dishes from our 2016 top ten are from In Situ, so I guess you could say we enjoyed it; We Googled the silverware while we were at the table and put it on a wish list; Feeling like a fairy while eating is my current and 8th grade self’s goal always; Desserts made from weeds are healthy and delicious; Nonalcoholic infusions < prosecco < tequila.
Rating: